This is the second part of the post devoted to the New Designers show held on Saturday 24 May at Casino Maltese. The reason for this split is to honour the enduring hours and hard work one can only imagine these budding designers put into to present us with such lavish pieces. So as before, I will showcase the remaining six designers – one of whom went on to win the New Designers Award on the closing night, the Fashion Awards – and comment on each one succinctly but with attention to important detail notwithstanding.
Churpina by Charlene Joan Sant – The sombre pastel palette of colours is appealing as it contrasts the seductive nature of the cuts; these are in turn muted very well with the playful patterned skirts and choice of motifs adorning the sleeves or fronts of the cropped tops. My favourites are the checkerboard skirt (perfect length) and the oh-so-cute bag (resembling a cottage am I right?).
Lukka – The explosion of colour surprised many attendees and I felt this was a brilliant antithesis to the more subdued tones of earlier collections. This means that this collection will cater to the tastes of those who are looking for a more daring ensemble or dress. The penultimate piece strikes a chord with wondrous creations as seen in Downton Abbey, so Lukka definitely stands out as an inventive couturier. If I had to select a preferred piece, it would be between the third one (a sort of dip hem dress) and the fourth dress (I love the cut, the long sleeves, and the belt-like design cinching the waist).
Taia by Alicia Schembri-Roslichenko & Mandy Farrugia – In keeping with the burst of reds and oranges, this collection also adds darker hues to the family: dark violets and plums, complementing a very lush venetian red (do correct me if I am wrong on any colours – I tried to compare this against a colour code). I must say that the two work brilliantly well together. The materials used are quite diverse: through plush velvet, luxurious leather, and figure-hugging satin in a glossy fabric, Alicia and Mandy tap into memorable styles and trends.
Celeste by Martina Spiteri – I simply love this collection. Bold essentials show us that you can always pull off a glamorous look with the mantra ‘Less is More’. The configuration of the clothes – whether it’s the maxi gown or the separate pieces – and the selection of the colours, both appeal to my personal dress code where the pencil skirt, shirt, and other understated items are the order of the day. The pièce de résistance was of course breathtaking in the balance between its sublime cut and undulating effect with every movement. Such a piece definitely rivals a wedding gown any day.
Poshet! by Ana Nogueira – The penultimate collection was brought to us by Ana Nogueria, a Portuguese national born in Mozambique. So that explains many things, including the mischievous counterpoise between the tribal and the urbane. The tank tops scream wearability and the want factor rises exponentially as these beauts can be dressed up or down effortlessly. The bags are, hands down, a work of art in texture, embellishment and aesthetic. Dangle them on your arm, and you’ve got yourself an outfit, pronto. My ultimate outfit is the first pic (the long one), as in all of it!
Rosemarie Abela – So there’s this theory that if you go last, you will definitely leave a lasting impression. Needless to say, Rosemarie’s collection left dazzled us and set our sartorial buds tingling. When I saw each model saunter down the runway I was immediately transported to the era of royal emperors and empresses of Japanese and/or Korean origins. I mention the latter because when I was in Seoul I had witnessed a wonderful changing of the guards in traditional regalia. Now I’m not saying that these designs are costumey – far from it. They are a vibrant and creative endeavour, and when you look at the totality of colour (Gatsby’s gold!), material (the sheer and silk), and cut (clean yet ornate), you see design the likes of which feature on Project Runway.
p.s. Rosemarie went on to win the award for New Designers during the Awards night. However, I must reaffirm that every designer is a winner, and it is indeed difficult for me to pick a favourite because I’d take something away from every one of them if I could 🙂